Indian Journeys - The untold journeys of Uttarakhand

During my frequent travels in the Himalayas, I found the Garhwal region the most endearing to my trekker’s heart. The deeper one penetrates into this marvel of nature, the more one becomes aware of God’s tender love for His creations-man and mountain, bird and beast. Here one is at peace with oneself.

Most popular trekking routes lie in this region. In winter, from December to March there is a generous amount of snowfall. However, the choice of a route does present a dilemma at times because one is no less tempting than the other. I chose my route, via Kuari Pass, south of Joshimath, and my travelling companion after much deliberation. The route is favoured by many seasoned trekkers as there are two approaches to the final destination- from Ghat, 19 km east of Nand Prayag or from Joshimath itself. The former is still known as Curzon Road as Lord Curzon took this route on his travel to Kuari Pass.

On a warm summer night, my friend and I left Delhi in the early hours, making Joshimath in about 16 hours. A bustling little town, it is one of the Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva and was founded in the 8th century by the Hindu sage, Shankaracharya. It is the focal point of trekking activities and also the starting point for those going to the Valley of Flowers, Hemkund, Mana, Nanda Devi Sanctuary and other destinations in the sprawling Himalayas. It serves very well as the base camp for expeditions to Neelkanth and many other peaks. All types of stores and equipment needed for an expedition can be easily picked up here. Porters are also available-both the sinewy Garhwali and the sturdy Nepali.

J.P. Khanduri, the manager of the tourist bungalow at Joshimath, is an old friend and he very kindly agreed to help draw up my itinerary. He suggested Kuari Pass via Auli, Gorson and Gailgarh, although he was doubtful whether I would take up this route as it was rough and treacherous. If at all we took this route then it was advisable to have a 'high altitude porter' with more so as the route was not adequately chartered. Local weather information too was not encouraging. Foul weather was predicted for the next three to four days. In an adventurous mood, my friend and I agreed to this route and requested Khanduri to recommend suitable porters. On his advice we took Bharat Singh, an experienced porter who had been with a Nanda Devi expedition. He proved to be a real asset.

NEXT morning we woke up with good cheer and looking forward to a rewarding day. Auli is reported for some charming landscape. The 3000 feet climb to Auli was gradual and during the ascent, the beautiful vistas of Nanda Devi and Haathi Parbat unfold by and by. What a sight it was! We took five and half to reach Auli, the grand bugyal (high altitude meadow). Clouds were coming up the horizon as we cooked our two minute noodles. We decided to halt here. To ourselves the trouble of pitching tents, we decided to spend night in an abandoned gazebo (which had glass panels all around and was meant for use of Indo Tibetan Border Police). From here one could command a 360 degree view of the grand panorama.

Bharat Singh, our porter, predicted experience that the weather continues to be hostile for some days and that it would rain on most afternoons. Going by this gloomy prediction we reckoned our trekking time would be much curtailed.

Early next morning we left without tea. Bharat Singh had promised us tea at his uncle's hut, a 45-minute walk from Auli. His uncle, a potato farmer, offered us steaming hot tea in the tradition of a highlander's hospitality. We sat there for a long time, sipping the beverage and listening to the old farmer's experiences.

The clouds had not fully lifted and were still clustering over the distant peaks though Dunagiri had cleared sufficiently to enable us to take its close-ups. Far out in the horizon we could discern the serpentine outline of Dhauli Ganga meandering through the valley.

Soon we resumed our walk and now we were passing through a thick forest. Our forest guide was guided more by instinct than by any visual aid or landmark. It was a gradual climb all the way till we reached a clearing which we believed was the Gorson Top. Gorson, again, is a high altitude meadow to be remembered for its rugged charms. There was wilderness all around. No wonder it is not visited by many or very often except by the few shepherds. That day not even a shepherd was in sight. It was peace, rejuvenating peace, all around. How I wish that this blessed place and its peace may never be disturbed by the hand of man.

By now the clouds reassembled over us and it started to rain. Hastily we pitched our tents and settled down for the night. The third day could not give us a good start as we resumed our journey in a slight drizzle. However we did witness a celestial game of hide and seek. Clouds of many formations and hues were perpetually chasing the rising sun. Occasionally the sun would peep clear through the veil and shine brilliantly as if challenging the clouds to dare catch it. It was an absorbing fantasy and I could have gone on watching it for any length of time but then we had miles to go.

After a while we reached a point of abrupt end with long tufts of grass. We were clearly a thousand feet above the tree line. This difficult and narrow passage could be negotiated only by clinging for dear life to the long blades of grass as there was very little space for foothold. The ordeal stretched for 1 and half km and gave us some anxious moments. We heaved a sigh of relief on reaching Tali which true to its name was flat like a plate. There is even a small lake, mirroring the peaks around it.

Again we entered a forest zone adorned with white rhododendrons. Another bugyal, the Chitrakhana, lay before us at 12,000 feet. Kuari Pass, our final destination, was dimly visible from here. It was time for a well earned rest before moving on to our next stop-Gailgarh which was going to be a steep ascent and would certainly prove demanding. The day's trek had been tiring enough, dismal weather made it depressing. As was our fate, dark clouds never left us alone and obscured the magnificent view on the other side of the ridge. As a matter of fact by now we had got fed up with their persistence in keeping us company. They limited our visibility.

On the fourth day while we were busy with our early morning preparations, a ferocious looking sheep dog appeared as if from nowhere and started snarling at us. The suddenness of his menacing appearance took us both by surprise and fright. To our relief, a man's voice called out to the brute. It was his master, Bir Singh, a goat man. Bir Singh atoned for the sins of his charge by flashing at us a transparent charming smile and offering us good hot tea. Kuari Pass lay ahead of us and we moved on and on despite feeling exhausted which I believe was due to lack of oxygen. Bharat Singh's face lighted up as we neared the top. A narrow bridle path on the other side was clearly visible and so was a pond. He called out, "Sahib, that's the Curzon Road '. From Chamoli to Tapovan via Kuari Pass ran the Curzon Road. In 1905, the then Viceroy of India opted for this route and for his convenience and comfort a narrow bridle path was hurriedly laid out. It has since been maintained by the shepherds who graze their flocks in this region.

By 8 O'clock in the morning we were at the top of Kuari Pass. On the northern side a huge massif. Its snowy top glistening in the morning, sun rose before us. It was the awe-inspiring mighty Neelkanth. Also visible from here were other famous peaks-Changabang, Nanda Devi, Dunagiri, Neelkanth, Mana, and Kedarnath. It was a superb site set in a glorious setting.

But this interlude of supreme happiness could not last forever. We had to bid adieu to this enchanting land and turn towards the steep descent of Tapovan. On way down to Tapovan we came across yet another bugyal-“Khulara”. The last stretch of Tapovan was an extremely tiring downhill walk. To add to our discomfort the dry conifer needles made the descent slippery as well. Any effort to check the momentum of our steps resulted in a nasty skid. At last we reached Tapovan.

Tapovan has good sulphur springs. We inquired about its location and without waste of time made straight for it. There in the soothing warmth of the springs we drowned our fatigue and came out fresh and spring again.

Our trek was over but its bitter-sweet memories still linger on. Maybe, out of sheer yearning, some day I will spread out my map again to pinpoint Kuari Pass, on a different route this time, of course.